Still sounds like a vac leak. Spray the *shoot* out of it with brake cleaner.

_________________
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 247k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 98k miles

Have you tried running without the SC belt to confirm?
I've never any boost control issues so I can't comment on your tool question.
I have had to limp home without a SC belt though.

Lookin that way... I got a vacuum gauge and put it on the intake manifold under the SC snout, and capped the line. Here are the results:

At cold idle



Warm idle (~160 degrees)



Video: in drive with brake on, under throttle



I must have made an error when I installed the LIM gaskets. Whatever it was, it didn't even throw a code until 5,000 miles after the job was done, and started out really small and got worse over time. So when I get everything apart, I'll take careful note of the positioning of everything. I've done this job a few times before and thought I had it down for sure.

_________________
- Rachael

Developed knock but oil pressure was holding. Harmonic balancer is effed, rubber separated. So I'm happy to have something to fix, but what causes harmonic balancers to go bad?

_________________
- Rachael

The rubber breaks down over time. Just like tires.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Replaced the balancer and the knock went away. Still was missing badly. I finally surrendered and took it to a mechanic near work. I truly cannot remember the last time I took a car to a mechanic for something other than exhaust, paint or tires. Humiliating as it was, I knew a good scanner was required to avoid more parts-throwing.

ended up being the 3-6 coil, which I took off my old 96 that wasn't misfiring when it was pulled. So I am not surprised at my confusion, and the mechanic too was tripped up a little because he got spark at the wires like I did, so I thought the coils must be firing. But his scanner said the only cylinders missing were 3 and 6, sure enough a coil swap did the trick. What a long, drawn-out process to solve this problem! But I am a better shade-tree mechanic for it and I learned a whole lot trying to track this down. Especially to double and triple check the coils!!

I've had 6 Bonnevilles now by this point, none of them had coil issues except for this car. In 10K I replaced the 1-6 coil (which actually threw a cylinder specific code), and the 3-6 (which threw a P0300). ICM was replaced with the one from my former 96 SSEi, although I'm sure the original was fine too. Is there anything that could cause a car to keep lunching coils or am I just lucky?

And the final note, the boost gauge starting at 0 appears to be an unrelated issue. I must have screwed up putting the boost valve back on. Boost still functions normally, just not the gauge. Yeah... not too worried about it. I'll get to that some other time.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions! Sure missed driving my $700 car. And relieved the misfire wasn't because of a mistake I made doing the LIM gaskets, that was making me lose faith in my abilities.

_________________
- Rachael

Good to hear. Sometimes we all have to swallow our pride and ask for help from the professionals.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Sometimes we all just need a little help. Make sure the contact between the ICM and the coils is clean, you can even put some dielectric grease in there.

So does the boost gauge just sit at 0 all the time?

_________________
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 247k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 98k miles