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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:34 pm 
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How would I access to A/C evaporator, and does anyone know how hard it is to swap out, if necessary? I'm assuming the glovebox comes out, which I'm going to do to look for a leak (put dye in the system) but if I need to replace it, how big a job am I in for?

Edited to add: Climate control car.

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Last edited by Bob Dillon on Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:53 pm 
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The evaporator is taken out via the engine bay. The HVAC blower motor box gets removed to gain access to it. It's pretty easy IIRC.

The heater core is accessed by the cabin but the dash doesn't need to come out.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:00 pm 
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It was my understanding that this was really easy to do. . . with the engine out. With the engine still in the car, I believe it is next to impossible, and requires cutting of the airbox.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:24 pm 
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RJolly87 wrote:
It was my understanding that this was really easy to do. . . with the engine out. With the engine still in the car, I believe it is next to impossible, and requires cutting of the airbox.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.


Yeah, just went out and looked under the hood when he posted that pic. Sure doesn't look like any fun. Got any idea how to test it for a leak with the system open? Compressed air? Don't see any dye back there with my magic flashlight.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:05 am 
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Go to an A/C shop and have them pull a vacuum on the system. That's how they check for leaks.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:40 am 
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00Beast wrote:
Go to an A/C shop and have them pull a vacuum on the system. That's how they check for leaks.


I pulled a vacuum on it Saturday after a buddy discharged the system for me. It held at about 28" overnight. I then recharged it Sunday and all was well until today. System pressure is hovering around 20 psi. It should be at about 55 psi (90 degrees out). I put dye in the system when I charged it and I can't find a leak anywhere with my UV flashlight.

I gotta think this over. Not sure what to do next. :dontknow:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:53 am 
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When vacuum was pulled, did the machine continuously pull vacuum, or pull and hold? If it held vacuum overnight, then it should be good. One guess would be leaking valves, as those will allow the system to hold vacuum while connected but will leak once disconnected.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:54 am 
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RJolly87 wrote:
When vacuum was pulled, did the machine continuously pull vacuum, or pull and hold? If it held vacuum overnight, then it should be good. One guess would be leaking valves, as those will allow the system to hold vacuum while connected but will leak once disconnected.


I used a little Harbor Freight pump, drew it down to 28", and shut off the pump, removed the fittings to the high and low side, and checked the vacuum again the next morning. Didn't leak a bit, so I charged the system. All was well. I even put o-rings inside the fitting caps. The low-side schrader valve was replaced (that's why I had the system discharged.)

Now, a few days later, my compressor will switch on, so there's some refrigerant in the system, but it's low and not cooling. Right afer I charged the system, the exit temp on the center vent was 38 degrees. Now, at about 20 PSI on the low side, the exit temp is ambient. No dye leaks I can see.

I just don't know where the refrigerant is going. Obviously, a leak, and slow, but where? Guess it might be time to replace o-rings and gaskets throughout.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:49 pm 
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I've had a system hold vacuum but not pressure before. Can you pressurize the system?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 5:01 pm 
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i have 96 PB SE and am fighting same type problem. bought the dye and special light. do not see any evidence of leak as evidenced by dye. in desperation tried some of the stop leak plus freon type stuff. now can have air for a month or two but eventually leaks down again. hoping to reach winter months before overhaul.

obviously very interested in your results. please post resolution.

shot in dark, charging port caps have o-rings to prevent pressure leak by schrader valve?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:44 pm 
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If it's holding vacuum overnight, my vote is on a bad seal on the compressor shaft. Only leaking when in use. But it should sling the dye out the back side of the pulley, or drip down out the bottom side of the pulley, either way visible.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:56 pm 
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MattStrike wrote:
If it's holding vacuum overnight, my vote is on a bad seal on the compressor shaft. Only leaking when in use. But it should sling the dye out the back side of the pulley, or drip down out the bottom side of the pulley, either way visible.


Thanks for the advice. It's not visible from the top. I'll run it up on the ramps tomorrow and take a look from underneath. .

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:10 pm 
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just thought i would add that i have a 134 sniffer and it does not detect freon with car sitting in place. after thinking about Matt Strike's post, i do not think i sniffed with engine running and AC on. something i will do. but i sniffed around condenser, all underhood lines and in dash vents. no evidence of leak.

lends more credence to Matt's point.

my sniffer was purchased from an air conditioning parts house but Harbor Freight has something similar. not sure about their quality. anyway, so far, sniffer nor dye has helped my case.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:11 am 
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OK, found the leak. Ran her up on the ramps last night at dusk and hit the bottom of the compressor with the UV light. The leak was at the place on the rear of the compressor where the high and low side plug in. Looking at an exploded view online, it appears there's a metal gasket and several o-rings that seal the lines. Obviously, they need to be replaced.

I'm not sure whether to just replace the gasket or the whole compressor while I'm in there. The system was cooling when charged, before the refrigerant leaked out, but the car has 145K on it, so it may be prudent just to swap out the whole mess.

Any opinions on this?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:14 pm 
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Mine is leaking in the same spot but not as quickly, usually it leaks out over the winter when I have the heat on. I'll be following this to see what the best option would be. Once I get the suspension replaced in my car, the AC will be next to tackle. If you do either of these repairs (not sure if there's a guide for compressor replacement on here), do you mind taking a lot of pictures to make a guide to follow?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:18 pm 
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Bob Dillon wrote:
OK, found the leak. Ran her up on the ramps last night at dusk and hit the bottom of the compressor with the UV light. The leak was at the place on the rear of the compressor where the high and low side plug in. Looking at an exploded view online, it appears there's a metal gasket and several o-rings that seal the lines. Obviously, they need to be replaced.

I'm not sure whether to just replace the gasket or the whole compressor while I'm in there. The system was cooling when charged, before the refrigerant leaked out, but the car has 145K on it, so it may be prudent just to swap out the whole mess.

Any opinions on this?


If its still cooling good I would let it be for now... A gasket set for the AC manifold to compressor and almost 3 12oz cans of 134..

If you wanted to get a new compressor I would recommend a delphi over most others..


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