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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:11 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 11:14 pm
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Location: Racine, Wisconsin
Year and Trim: 97.2 40th SLE
68 w/400
94 SSEi
Well my 1997 has been trouble free for so long but it finally needs a little TLC.


1.) Brakes- Not sure if I have a leak or what, didn't see any leaks. Here's the deal my master cylinder has always stayed at the max level, I check over everything regularly. But when I checked everything over today I find it is right at the min level. Not a huge drop but the fluid must be going somewhere. Here's the odd thing, that little rubber thing in the cap wasn't sucked down like it usually should when the fluid gets low.

Brakes are acting a little odd, the pedal is nice and firm not spongy at all. But it seems I have to push harder to get the last 3rd or when coming to a complete stop. Pedal doesn't seem to sink but its like a have to push harder (abnormally high amount of pressure on the pedal) as it slows down to get it to come to a complete stop.

Also when I did the brakes lines 4 years ago (45,000 miles), I had no idea what a proportioning valve was at that time so they ended up getting eliminated. Wondering if this has anything to do with it?

Possibly too much pressure for the rear wheel cylinders?


2.) Two of my subframe bushings have lost most of their washer. The bolt is still in tact and the rubber seems to be somewhat tight. I can't pull it off or spin it but it looks like something that should be addressed sooner rather than later.

I guess my question is 4 of the 6 seem to be solid still. Rusty but solid. So should I just replace the two broken one or all 6? The two washers that are mostly gone are the front/rear ones.

And where do I get new washers. I assume they are special GM stuff. I see the washer bushing kit from dorman but dang. $45 seems a little steep for a single washer that'd be about $300 after shipping and tax for all 6.

Do the 2000+ use the same lower washer and bolt as 92-99? I have some spares from the GXP I think I could get by with if they are the same. My washers are rotted off and got but they look similar to the others that are on the car.

Edit: It shows different part numbers for the bushing kits but I don't even need the whole kit. All I really need is the washer and they look pretty similar. 1997 vs 2005

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Clay
1997.2 40th SLE-138k
1968 Bonneville 400ci w/TH-400-40k
1999 GMC Suburban SLT-191k
2005 Escalade 253k-GINA


nos4blood70 wrote:
Literally, cars are drugs.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:02 am
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Year and Trim: 1995 se bonnie
iirc, proportioning valves only make the rear brakes come on before the fronts so the car doesn't nose dive, maybe they do have too much pressure at the wheel cylinder im not sure.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:37 pm
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Year and Trim: 1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE
1997 Pontiac Firebird
The last time I had brake work done on my last cat, the proportioning valve had gotten sediment in it and every time I would brake, fluid would enter the faulty valve, lock up, and the rear wheel locked up due to the stuck fluid and it would drag bad. I replaced the valve with a new one and it fixed my issue. My point is, is that the valve played a big part in my braking performance. Having none at all may be the problem.

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1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Stored -All stock, Sony CDX-GT570UP HU w/ Scosche HD 6.5"'s front/Alpine S 6x9 rear, 153,000 miles
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:14 am 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 3351
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
Year and Trim: 97.2 40th SLE
68 w/400
94 SSEi
None to be argumentative but I've driven the car roughly 45-50k miles the way it is, WITHOUT proportioning valves. I don't see why it would suddenly become an issue unless not having them caused another problem?

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Clay
1997.2 40th SLE-138k
1968 Bonneville 400ci w/TH-400-40k
1999 GMC Suburban SLT-191k
2005 Escalade 253k-GINA


nos4blood70 wrote:
Literally, cars are drugs.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:37 pm
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Year and Trim: 1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE
1997 Pontiac Firebird
I understand. You may not need them, I have no idea, I was just putting my 2 cents in because I have had problems in the past and thought it may be useful mentioning. I hope you find the issue though, brake problems are probably the most stressful when things go rye. :???:

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1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Stored -All stock, Sony CDX-GT570UP HU w/ Scosche HD 6.5"'s front/Alpine S 6x9 rear, 153,000 miles
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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1997 Pontiac Firebird - DD - 3800 Series II, Cold air intake/FWI, Y87 Package, Sony DSX-S100 Digital Media Reciever, 180,000 miles


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 3351
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
Year and Trim: 97.2 40th SLE
68 w/400
94 SSEi
Well I had to head down to the south end of Indiana so I ended up putting 850 miles on her in the last 3 days. Brakes still seem to be working although I am losing a little fluid (the master cylinder level drops a little).

But here's the funny thing, the little rubber seal thing doesn't get sucked down when the fluid goes low. Bad master cylinder or something else?

I'll get a better look at it in the next couple days.

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Clay
1997.2 40th SLE-138k
1968 Bonneville 400ci w/TH-400-40k
1999 GMC Suburban SLT-191k
2005 Escalade 253k-GINA


nos4blood70 wrote:
Literally, cars are drugs.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:33 pm 
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Location: Dearborn, MI
Year and Trim: '93 SSEi
'05 STS-4
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'97 LeSabre
Put the proportioning valves back in, too, they keep the rears from locking before the fronts during heavy/panic braking.

Find the leak. That will tell you if it's the MC.

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