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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:01 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1997 SE Anniversary Edition
I had a flat yesterday in the middle of nowhere and the AAA guy cross-threaded a front wheel stud putting the tiny spare on, which he courteously failed to mention. :evil: I got to a my tire store (America's Tire Store, by the way, GREAT people, got there 15 minutes after closing and they still took care of me) and the stud turned off.

Somebody refresh my memory, do you have to pull the axle to replace a stud? I've replaced hubs before but can't remember. If not, shouldn't be too big a job, but if so, it's going to wait until next weekend.

Thanks.

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Last edited by Bob Dillon on Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:17 pm 
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No need to pull the axle shaft, but the hub does have to come off to do the job properly. The old stud must be pressed out and the new one pressed in.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:26 pm 
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Sounds like a job for a trusty c-clamp and a socket that slips over the stud.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:43 pm 
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J Wikoff wrote:
Sounds like a job for a trusty c-clamp and a socket that slips over the stud.

No need for a press this is for sure a c-clamp job!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:46 pm 
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I have tried with a C clamp before and it didn't work. Not saying it can't work, but didn't work for me. The smaller clamp I had wasn't strong enough to do it and the bigger one wouldn't fit.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:33 pm 
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A good hit with a large hammer will pop the stud right out.
Then place the new stud into the hub and use a lug nut to draw the stud into place.

Depending on the type of hub, it may not need to be removed from the knuckle to replace the stud, saving time.

Leon

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 10:15 pm 
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:stupid:

Couple big washers under the lugnut to protect the hub face, it will pull it right on. You might need to re-install it on the car with the new stud loosely in there to get enough torque.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 9:14 pm 
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Location: Space Coast, or at least it used to be
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I have used an old lug nut to pound out the old stud, unless its crossed and you can't get a lug on at all, then simply pound it out.. I reinstall the new stud with a stud install tool using the lug nut, that little tool has come in very handy...

On some cars the hub has to come off the car to remove the stud, and some have to have the hub pressed out of the bearing, but this is not the case with the 87-05 H body cars.. :)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Done! 40 minutes total.

Removed the wheel, caliper and rotor. Put the car in neutral and rotated the hub until the broken stud was at about the 2 o'clock position with lots of room behind it. (This may be different for driver's side.)

Gave the broken stud a couple of taps with a small sledge hammer and it popped right out. Put the new stud in, put a stack of washers and a lug nut on from the front, and puilled it into place with my electric impact wrench. Couldn't get it to seat completely with the impact, but it was in there good and solid.

Reinstalled the rotor and caliper, put the wheel back on, dropped her off the jack, snugged up the other four bolts, and then used a breaker bar to pull the new stud completely into place. loosened it up, and then torqued all five studs to 100 ft/lbs.

Easier then I thought it was gonna be. Time for a brew! :beerchug:

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