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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:39 pm 
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I think I already know the answer to my question, but I'm hoping I am wrong.

Can the return fuel line be repaired or does it have to be replaced?

Trying to get the ole green car running tonight. Thanks - BC

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:04 pm 
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The nylon lines can be replaced. You will need a special repair kit though.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:27 pm 
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So, no patching then? It must be replaced? - BC

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:28 pm 
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I meant they can be fixed. Brain Fart. You need a special kit to properly patch them.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:02 pm 
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If it is easily accessed and just a pinhole you can cut out a small section and get a nylon to nylon compression fitting at most parts stores. It ain't pretty but it works.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:15 pm 
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the fuel line is partially melted where is rested on metal during the fire. - BC

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 2:44 am 
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If you are successful I wouldn't count on a quick repair lasting very long.
I would think a compression fitting for plastic tubing (with a metal insert inside the tube) would be the best temporary fix.

I have tried junk yard replacement lines but the good ones I found didn't last long (pin holes).

Fuel line repair kit is shown in this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjlGJhZ8UqE
I found the key to a good joint at the barb is to keep the tubing aligned and force it on in a straight shot (which is achieved by the clamp blocks and tool/gun in the kit).

Without using this tool, I have been able to get the barbs on by heating and/or wiggling & twisting them but the results are hit or miss.

Joint integrity is much better with the straight shot because the tubing does not go beyond its elastic limit (the ribs of the barb show through on the outside of the tubing much better than using other method).

The kit/tool shown in the video is pricey so I made my own redneck version to get the same results.
You might be able to find a shop that does have the tool though.


-----------
When I did mine:
I didn't trust my original tubing due to its age so I used new tubing runs without any splices.
I re-used the factory barbs since the Dorman ones are the newer child-proof type that need a little tool to pop them off the fuel rail.
I also re-used the metal tubing section at the frame rail (can't remember if this applies to L27 or if it's L67 only).


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:17 am 
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pbrktrt wrote:
If it is easily accessed and just a pinhole you can cut out a small section and get a nylon to nylon compression fitting at most parts stores. It ain't pretty but it works.


Don't trust those compression fittings. I replaced my quick connect part to the fuel rail and I kept leaking where the metal union piece was. A hose clamp on both ends is all it took to fix. It was an EXTREMELY slow leak but any fuel leak is a bad leak. You might have better luck than I did but make sure to keep checking up on it after you do the fix.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:47 am 
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Don't use ANY type of fitting in that location. Those fuel lines are too close to the rear exhaust manifold, not to mention the fresh cabin air intake.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:24 pm 
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You can get away with using a fuel injection grade rubber hose and clamping over the nylon on the return and evap lines only. Don't use it on the pressure line. Use a quality clamp and make it just tight enough not to leak, then make it a tiny bit tighter.
Compression fittings never worked for me, and the repair kits have a nice metal barb that potentially restricts flow.

I did this on a pressure line last year and it is holding with no leaks. It was meant to be a temporary fix, but if it ain't broke...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 2:36 pm 
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willwren wrote:
Don't use ANY type of fitting in that location. Those fuel lines are too close to the rear exhaust manifold, not to mention the fresh cabin air intake.



Do you think I have a chance of getting a reliable return fuel line at the JY? (Yes, it is over the exhaust manifold) - BC

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2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... 2013 Cadillac CTS 1SD 270 HP LF1 6L50 - SOLD ..... PBCF user 2321


Last edited by 1oldman on Thu Dec 01, 2011 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:13 pm 
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Junkyard part may work fine, it just depends on what you can find. The nylon lines seem to outlast the car from what I've seen.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:24 pm 
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1oldman wrote:
So, no patching then? It must be replaced? - BC


Where is it broken? I once used a length of fuel injection hose (use FI hose ONLY!) and dual hose clamps on each end that were TIGHT to get home.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:28 am 
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Bob Dillon wrote:
1oldman wrote:
So, no patching then? It must be replaced? - BC


Where is it broken? I once used a length of fuel injection hose (use FI hose ONLY!) and dual hose clamps on each end that were TIGHT to get home.


Fortunately it's not broken. It was partially melted in a fire in the engine bay. The return fuel line has a grove melted in it. It did not go all the way through. It will hold pressure, but I am not willing to drive it for fear of it failing, even with a fire extinguisher in the car. The damage to the return fuel line is above the exhaust manifold. If it failed, it would be like a Roman Candle. - BC

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2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... 2013 Cadillac CTS 1SD 270 HP LF1 6L50 - SOLD ..... PBCF user 2321


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:38 am 
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1oldman wrote:
Bob Dillon wrote:
1oldman wrote:
So, no patching then? It must be replaced? - BC


Where is it broken? I once used a length of fuel injection hose (use FI hose ONLY!) and dual hose clamps on each end that were TIGHT to get home.


Fortunately it's not broken. It was partially melted in a fire in the engine bay. The return fuel line has a grove melted in it. It did not go all the way through. It will hold pressure, but I am not willing to drive it for fear of it failing, even with a fire extinguisher in the car. The damage to the return fuel line is above the exhaust manifold. If it failed, it would be like a Roman Candle. - BC


Good thinking. Mine was in the rear by the filter.

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