Had some time to take a thorough look under the car that i just purchased and this is what I found. All shots are of driverside rear by the tire..






Is there anyway to fix this?

It's hard to tell exactly what those pieces are, but it doesn't look good...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

yea, I was pretty upset to say the least when I came to the rear of the car. Thinking its rotten frame..

that looks like the section of uni-body behind the gas tank between the two rear struts! ouch dude..that really sucks..im sorry to say but if its the section of uni-body im thinking of..time to start stripping her down!

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LUCAS Member # 534.
96 olds cutlass supreme SL 4 door 3100 4t60 *3.33 gears* *Fe1* 115K bone stock DD

tis the section you speak of =/. What a shame, the car runs and drives great, everything works. Guess I'll drive it til I cant anymore. Cash is insanely tight unfortunately. Hopefully it'll carry me through a few months til I can scrape some cash together. Excuse the stupid question, but when this decides to go, what can I expect?

Stick a fork in it, it's done. With the rot that far in, that car's living on borrowed time. It's not if, but when, the rest of the body lets go. That has all the structural rigidity of a piece of sheet steel. Drive cautiously and leave lots of following room.

Get some bar and chain oil to paint over that to slow it down a little bit. It's a bit tacky so it'll stick. Do that soon, and you might just limp it through the winter.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

Youch... that's nasty. I'd hate to see the rockers under the plastic covers. Or the subframe mounts.

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2012 Grand Cherokee Overland Summit - Hemi
1996 Thunderbird LX - 3.8

take it from a member whos driving on borrowed time..my current DD threw the rest of the year is a POS 99 ford winstar that is rusting just as bad

dont drive to far, keep your eyes and ears open..every day i drive that thing scares me..and i only put about 80 miles a week on it..so its gonna last a while

in your cars current state i would start looking at driving something else very soon im sorry to say..that rust wont stay together to much longer

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LUCAS Member # 534.
96 olds cutlass supreme SL 4 door 3100 4t60 *3.33 gears* *Fe1* 115K bone stock DD

yea I feel like an idiot.. checked everywhere except the corners underneath the thing. If I can make it last til february i'd be in okay shape. Any idea where i can buy the bar and chain oil?

Should beable to find bar chain oil at a hardware store or home improvement store.

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1969 Pontiac GTO
1978 Olds Cutlass Supreme
1981 Chevy C20
1985 Chevy K5 Blazer
2001 Ford F350 SC Cab&Chassis Dually
2004 Bonneville SE
2008 Grand Prix

ok thanks for all the replies guys. Any guesses to what this car might be worth junk wise? motor(L67) and trans are in good shape.. thinking of not waiting for the failure, and finding something safe.thanks

Selling the motor/transmission will likely net about $600-700 or so. Assuming good condition.

Bar and chain oil can be had for cheap at Wal-Mart.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

in your Province ... don't you need to have a safety certificate before you can get license plate for your car?
if so you could go to the ministry of transportation (if the safety has not expired) and the garage that wrote the safety will have to make it right at their expense

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Tinted 13% Front 3% Rear, MSD Coils and Wires, K&N drop in air and oil filter...more to come as things wear/break!!

Tint it so dark, you won't even know your name

Too bad your not closer to me man, I would GIVE you my old Pizza car!!! It isnt the greatest but it would get you through till freakin FEB much safer than that thing will. Im so sorry you didnt see that before.

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1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
2004 Saturn Ion 3 Quad Coupe

600 or 700 dollars I probably wouldn't complain too much since thats around what I paid for the car anyways. Then figure scrap the rest for 300 or so and I actually end up coming out with some extra money. IF I ended up keeping it until february, a buddy of mine is trying to convince me to buy a delta in the same year and then doing a motor swap, but I'm sure the difficulties in doing so would be far superior to my general knowledge of cars. I just really hate to let it go, I've been itching to get my hands on an L67 for YEARS, and this just renewed my love for the combination. We'll see what the paychecks look like through november tho. Thanks for the replies and free car offers

I believe the OP's in Minnesota. They might not even have any form of safety inspection. Here in NY that car would be in a junkyard based on that damage. Upon sale of a car, the buyer needs to get it inspected within 10 days of registration. I'm not sure what recourse a buyer would have if they were sold a lemon like that one.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

Not much, Your buying it AS IS. Man Im really sorry for the PP. Let me know man if you end up needing it. I am going to scrap it mid November.

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1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
2004 Saturn Ion 3 Quad Coupe

Got theft insurance? Park it in a bad neighborhood with the keys in it.

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462 cubic inches of REAL Pontiac power.

North Minneapolis is good for that...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I'm in illinois, so no safety inspection. I was too desperate for something cheap and didnt expect anything like this unfortunately. Lesson learned, don't trust ANYONE selling a used car without inspecting it top to bottom. I'll probably post an ad up with some pictures next week and see if anyone is looking for a parts car. On the hunt for a reliable ride again, can't have my kid in this thing