So I needed to get my harmonic balancer replaced so I figured while I was at it I'd replace my crankshaft position sensor since the car has been stalling on me and I heard thats usually the culprit.

So after I got both installed, I left the mechanic and came home everything running smooth.

Just went back to start the car, power came on but it will not even crank. I also noticed that the SECURITY light stays solid when I attempt to start the car. I've had my VATS bypassed already so what could be the problem?

Would have something to do with the crankshaft sensor? please help.

If the security light stays on solid, and does not go out a few seconds after key on, you will want to double check your resister pack to make sure the resistance is still correct. It is possible that if, depending on how it is wired, one or more of the resisters may have failed, or come out of tolerance.

Would it have anything to do with what the mechanic did? It shouldn't, but I also don't know what all he did.

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~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

That VATS bypass only works when the module is functioning correctly. If it's staying lit, there's a good chance the module is toast.

First, lets try the simplest thing. Take the key and rub it with alcohol (or hand sanitizer, which would be better since you can put a dab on, run the key through the ignition a few times to clean the contacts at the tumbler), then try again. Also see if the car will start in neutral instead of park.

If that fails, I know how to bypass all of that module for GOOD, but you'll need a relay and some extra wiring.

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2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

For the record...

Any VATS bypass does NOT bypass the VATS module...it only closes the loop for the resister pellet reading. A true bypass will take the module completely out of the loop.

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2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

Do you by chance have another key you could try? It might help narrow down the problem to VATS

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1993 Park Avenue
200k, well-optioned, and running strong

Thanks guys, dont know why but the car started up after 10 mins and hasnt done it all day since this morning. I will have to check my resistors this weekend.

Now I got to figure out this stalling problem. It usually happens at low rpm (around 1000) with my foot off the gas. Did it to me today on the highway. Since I just put a brand new crank sensor I've eliminated that possibilty. All my wires and plugs are new. Any ideas???

Was a CASE learn done on the car after the sensor was replaced?

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2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

Not sure, what a case learn?

That's a no then. The CASE Learn (Crank Angle Sensor Error) basically allows the crank sensor to determine where the crank is and set timing from there. Go to your dealer, tell them you changed the crank sensor and that you need a CASE Learn. It takes 30 seconds with a Tech II and they'll charge you $20 for it. Unless you know someone with a tuner or a newer Aeroforce ScanGuage, which can do CASE Learns.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Awesome thanks !!!!