You will want to avoid this job if at all possible, but if you MUST remove the dash, here is what you are in for.

I removed the defroster and HUD cover to undo the top dash screws, removed the hush panels right and left and the glove box to remove the 10-mm head bolts holding the dash panel to the body right and left, dropped the steering column to a styrofoam block placed across the driver's seat by removing the lower filler panel (4 bolts), and undid the two front bolts holding the steering column, then removed the 6 bolts securing the dash around the column. The last big bolts are behind the left side of the glove box. Then, the center console had to be disassembled to the point where the nuts and bolts holding it to the floor could be removed allowing the whole deal to be slid rearward enough to unbolt the bottom center of the dash panel from the floor mount and slide it back and up.

I removed the HUD, the CD player and the EEC head. Then I opened both front doors, pulled the dash back and pivoted it on a heavy cloth on the console so the passenger side came out and down several inches. There was plenty of wiring except for one two-wire connector on the back of the driver's side of the dash to allow the dash to come back several inches with no pull on any wire. The instrument cluster was not removed. The dash is heavy and hard to move and must be handled carefully to prevent damage. The center console seat switches and the panel surrounding the shift lever had to be unfastened and raised and the trans shifted back to 2 to allow rear movement of the dash.

It took a lot of patience to undo everything without breaking, scratching, or damaging any delicate components or trim. I just took my time and quit for a while or for the day when I got frustrated. At that slow and careful pace, it took me about three days to take it apart and two to put it back together. But everything is nice and clean and tight, and I had an opportunity to realign some of the little anti-squeak pads the factory had glued on crooked in a couple of places on the dash trim pieces. (The edge of one of these was visible above the EEC head and looked out of place.) So now everything works and the dash looks like new, well really, better than new.

This was not easy.

Hope this all helps the next guy who might have to do this job!

_________________




1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

I removed my 97 SE dashboard. It's hanging underneath the roof, using a rope running over the roof connected to the dash at both ends. The electrical umbilical cord is still connected, so I couldn't remove it from the vehicle, but I was able to easily remove my carpet & underlayment to repair some rust holes in the floor, as well as replace the heater core.

Now, all I have to do is install a new underlayment and old carpet (I cleaned it), and then reinstall the dashboard.

Does anyone know where I can find an exploded view of a 97 Bonneville dashboard so I won't forget to install any of its parts?

This is probably as good as you're going to get on the internet.



This is a bit of a rabbit hole but if you have access to a micro fiche reader you can pick these up for cheap.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Thanks 95naSTA !!!

I installed new underlayment material that I bought thru Home Depot. Then I reinstalled my carpet. All I have left to do is to reinstall my dashboard. So, I'll make good use of your dashboard drawing.

Also, I'll check my local libraries to see if they have any micro fiche readers that I can use, and buy the micro fiche set that you recommended.

I'll keep you all posted on my progress.

I had a metal bracket that I thought might be #16 on the above drawing, but wasn't sure until I looked up the part number at

https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/ ... 57381.html

This website also shows some more detailed drawings as well as the dashboard part numbers.

To see the detailed drawings, simply right click on the website drawings, then select "Open image in a new tab" or something like that. I'm running Chrome, so that's my choice when I right click on it.

Nice. That's way more detail than I could find but now that I see it, I should have remembered that existed.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Weird that the metal bracket that I had trouble finding where it goes, #16 on 95naSTA 's drawing and also on GM's drawings, is actually on the extreme left of the dashboard, connecting it to the body. Probably because there's one on the extreme right side too, but they should have at least included another bracket on the left end. I don't know why I removed the whole bracket, but it is what it is. Also, what I should have done initially is to bag and label each set of screws and bolts so I wouldn't need to group them into similar bunches and figure out which ones go where. Anyways, that's my next challenge.

Another trick is to take pics of all the fastners and their locations when you disassemble. This helped me the last couple dashes.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Thanks everyone for your help.

I finally re-assembled my dash and completed the restoration of my 97 Bonneville, and then drove up Rt 93 to get an inspection sticker, when I got into an accident which essentially totaled my vehicle! Arrgghh! My first accident since I bought it new in 1997!

Anyways, I posted it for sale on the Parts For Sale or Trade section of this website, and I'll accept the best Reasonable Offer for it.

It's loaded with some brand new parts, and some recently installed parts (within 5K miles). It only has about 178K original miles on it (it's only a baby!). You can see all the details on the Parts For Sale or Trade section of this website.

Cheers!

Sorry to hear.. that's rough.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

It might be possible to repair the damage if I can get it towed to a place where I can work on it. I lost my workplace when my landlord-friend decided to sell his house quickly, so I had to move. It's hard to find a place in southern NH because many people are moving out of MA because they expect taxes to go thru the roof there soon. Welcome to this crazy new world of fiscal irresponsibility and wishful thinking without any basis of fact and real science!

Good Luck, Merry Christmas and Happy Hanuka to everyone!

Earlier, I assumed my crashed Bonneville had too much damage and was considered "totaled", but when I returned to the towing company where it was stored, I took a much closer look at it (underneath too) and realized that it wasn't "totaled" and decided to keep it and repair the damage! I also deleted my posting for my car as a "parts car" on the Parts for Sale or Trade section of this website. So I had it towed to an outdoor storage facility and was greatly helped by the Storage Manger (Rich) and the AAA driver (her name is Thyme) to push my Bonnie into the 10x20 storage bin for me to repair later.
One reason that I'm keeping it is that It's loaded with some brand new parts (Walker exhaust system with band-clamps, Curt rear bumper hitch, heater core & hoses, full-size spare tire, blower control module (BCG), body control module, and AIR LIFT Rear Air Spring Kit), and many recently installed parts (within the last 5K miles), and it only has about 178K original miles on it (it's only a baby!). Another reason is that I removed the lower side panels and carpeting to grind out all the rusted metal and then covered it with "Rust Bullet" (from Amazon) to help prevent it from rusting again, and then covering that with rust-proofing (from Harbor Freight).

Also, the car that hit me (Mitsubishi) was a total wreck because its front end was crushed in beyond repair. That says a lot about my 4x6 pressure-treated wooden bumper (covered with sheet metal, and then covered by the original plastic bumper cover) that I installed because I couldn't find a good rear-bumper reinforcement bar. My rear bumper looked hardly damaged at all!

I'd show pics of my wooden rear bumper reinforcement bar, and other reconstruction pics, as soon as I figure out how to show these pics in my Google Drive Bonneville reconstruction pics folder. I think all I need to do is set it's permissions to let anyone view this folder.

Anyways, I'll keep you all up to date on my re-restoration progress.

Cheers!

Good luck on your repairs. IF you decide to part out. Message me.

_________________
1997 SSEI 3.8 L67 149,000 miles Moonroof, Polished Gen V w/L32 intake, 3.5 mod. Pulley, SD Headers, Intense Stage 1 tune, MagnaFlow Cat 94109, Catco catback, Autolite 103s, 180 stat, Intense FWI, 1995 OEM trans cooler, Cleared corners. KYB Excel G struts and shocks.


2006 Malibu SS 3.9 60 degree V6, Variable Valve, Tap shift Trans, 100,000 miles Bone stock

SOLD - 1992 SSEI FWI PEM Catco Cat NGK TR55 180 stat Original owner 209,000 miles Original Engine and Trans - Still strong when she left

Thanks for your offer, but it seems that the only undercarriage suspension damage was to the Rear Right control arm, which was bent from the accident. There's body damage, but I can manage that.