Hey guys,
I am a little angry this morning. I got in my 97' Olds 88 to drive to work this morning, and I was greeted with battery terminal issues...AGAIN! Last year I had issues with corrosion on the positive terminal. It got to the point where my car shut off once when it was dark out while going 40 mph down a curved hill leaving me with no lights, turn signals, brakes, power steering, ability to quickly unlock doors, and god forbid airbags if I happened to hit something. I landed the car safely in a parking lot using the E-brake, and limped it home to repair it. I replaced the bolt that screws into the positive battery terminal, and installed a splice kit that I used to replaced 1' of the 4 gauge wire that runs along the passenger frame rail. I went through this rough winter, and the car's electrical system operated flawlessly. Now the problem is here again and its just as bad as it used to be. I cannot drive this car in such an unsafe manner. I need some advice. Can you guys recommend a quality battery terminal replacement and/or a procedure to prevent this from happening completely? Maybe I should ditch this piece altogether and save myself from killing myself/others and/or having high insurance premiums and a bad driving record.

Hey do you guys think something like this will work? I am thinking that this could be the best option. Perhaps I didn't do a good job by replacing everything that was part of the old terminal, and I should try to rebuild it to look exactly like the factory setup. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-OE-DO ... ccessories

Get a replacement cable (Napa, AZ, Advanced). It only runs to the starter and has one aux connection with a crimp connector on it. Then use a protectant on the terminal and the battery after using a wire brush to clean up the terminal.

Edit: I would not use something like that. It is just asking for more corrosion. The best thing to do would be to replace it with a new cable. Can you get a picture of what you have repaired?

Myfirstbonnie,
I got a replacement cable from a local auto shop back in October, put it in and had no problems for 6 months. I had to cut at least 1' off of the chassis positive cable because it was deeply corroded. Since the kit only came with one 4 AWG wire lead, I replaced the chassis lead because that is linked directly to the battery and I'd always have power provided the battery was charged. Clearly all leads need to be replaced due to corrosion (starter, and whatever else there is). I can provide a pic when i get home, I will be honest and say its not the prettiest repair, but it worked and clearly it wasn't going to last forever. I may resort to buying the thing on ebay, and splicing 1' off of ALL wires that go to the positive terminal. I am nervous about the crimps coming loose over time when I replace everything, but I'll solder them too for extra strength. I think this is a REALLY bad design on GM's part, they should have crimped/wired the chassis positive lead to the starter lead so that there would always be a mechanical connection between the two, hence no stalling. All of my other cars were wired that way.

If you bought a replacement cable you shouldn't be doing any cutting or splicing of the cable. It should be a direct bolt in. I still don't understand what you did.

Here are the cables from a Regal I am parting. This is what you should be walking away with from the part store. No splicing.


or ones from a 96 SSEi

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Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

I'm confused too. Just go OEM.

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2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS

I am unsure how to post pictures on here (my pics aren't on the internet). I took a few. But yea I checked for corrosion of my new positive post and there doesn't seem to be anything new (had to peel all the electrical tape off). I do have a question, where does the large negative battery lead go to? Is it a huge ground strap under the car? Should I check there for corrosion? This engine was rebuilt 20,000 miles ago, and maybe the ground wasn't put back on correctly?

How to post pics: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=146

Yes the ground straps directly to the frame in the engine bay.

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

On some years the large negative cable attaches to the engine block. It's on the front of the engine, right about where cylinder #3 would be.

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2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS