Hey guys i know it sounds like a dumb question but i have never done one before although i could figure it out. i just figure it would be better to ask first. is there any thing i need to know before getting started ie reversed threads or things that may be in the way that you may not be able to see? can i do it with the rack in? thanks in advance.

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If it were quick and easy everyone would be doing it!

You should be able to do it with the rack still in the car. This is what I posted over at BPro as an answer to a similar question back in February after doing a '98 Regal. It should be similar for the Bonneville.

The outer has to be removed first, then plan on fighting the jam nut off, because that likes to freeze up on the inner's rod. PB Blaster didn't touch it, but heat did. That has to come off, because you have to remove the boot from the inner. A spring clamp holds the outside of the boot that comes off easily. If you're doing the left, turn the wheel right, and visa-versa. That gives you a bit more room by extending the rack on that side.

The rack side of the boot has a clip type clamp that can be a pain to reach and get off. Plan on replacing that. I just used a worm gear type hose clamp for it. The boot has an air tube to equalize pressure in the boot for each side. Keep an eye on that, and where it goes.

Push the outside of the boot back toward the rack, and you'll see a groove in the rod that holds the boot in place. Put a small rubber band in there to be able to slide that end of the boot over it. The inner side of the boot will be stuck so plan on prying around that to loosen it. Put some tape around the threads of the tie rod to protect the boot, then slide it off.

There's a rubber cover (damper) over the inner part of the inner tie rod. This will also be stuck, so work that loose, then push that back onto the part of the rack that is extended. Buy/rent/borrow/steal an inner tie rod tool. Put a back-up wrench on the rack. Some say this part is not needed, but the instructions warn that damage could occur to the rack if you don't use a back-up wrench. It will help if you have a second person to help hold that wrench for you. Put it on the flat of the rack that is extended. This will have gear slots on it. Use that to keep that part stationary while removing the tie rod.

The instructions say that the new tie rod has to be staked in place to keep it from coming loose. I decided to follow the advice of some on the web who used thread lock instead. There just isn't enough room, in my opinion, to stake it while the rack is on the car. They used blue thread lock. I opted for the red. Thread the new tie rod on, and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. Put the rubber damper back on, slide the boot on, install the clamps, thread on the jam nut, and install the outer tie rod. Measuring the old one will give you a good idea on how far the new one should be threaded on. This will get you at least close to the proper alignment. You will need an alignment when you're done.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.