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 Post subject: vats question
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:49 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1996 ssei
Is there a sure way to rule out the vats is not working? When I go to start my car the fuel pump kicks in and I hear a clicking sound under the dash on the passenger side but the starter will not turn over. The battery tested go so does this sound like a bad starter or a bad vats?


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 Post subject: Re: vats question
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:55 pm
Posts: 1204
Year and Trim: 2003 Lesabre Limited, 2008 Cobalt, 2014 Malibu
grnmonster wrote:
Is there a sure way to rule out the vats is not working? When I go to start my car the fuel pump kicks in and I hear a clicking sound under the dash on the passenger side but the starter will not turn over. The battery tested go so does this sound like a bad starter or a bad vats?


The only way to tell is to check to see if you're getting battery current to the main terminal on the starter. Using a small set of jumper wires to it is one way. Also check to see if there's power to the smaller wire on the solenoid that engages the current to the starter when the key is turned to ON. Do not attempt this unless you are capable and understand the wiring on the starter.

The cable from the battery may be corroded at the ends.

BTW, does the car crank when you jump it from another car?


Last edited by imidazol97 on Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: vats question
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 9:11 pm
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Location: Fayette City,PA
Year and Trim: 1990 Bonneville LE
Is the security light staying on or blinking in the dash? If the vats module fails to read the key, it turns on the warning light in the instrument panel. (IIRC, during the initial power up, all the lamps come on to let you know the bulbs are not burned out, then they go off as the modules finish their self tests...so the "Security" lamp will come on, then go out if the vats module is doing it's thing properly.)

The clicking under the dash is one of the relays, perfectly normal. Next test is to hook up a volt meter on the starter solenoid. See if you are getting voltage at the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position (Small terminals on the solenoid.) The big, heavy cable on the starter is 12vdc straight from the battery to spin the starter motor. You should see battery voltage on that lead at all times when the battery is hooked up.

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Bye Bye 1990 Bonneville LE... Now it belongs to my daughter
In the Garage: 2009 Subaru Outback, 1987 Camaro, 2006 SV650S, 1995 Regal 182 "ASANAGI", 1962 Ford Galaxie 500, 1995 Ford F150 XL 4WD, 1953 Farmall Cub


Last edited by clm2112 on Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: vats question
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 10:09 am
Posts: 29
Location: Houston, TX
Year and Trim: 1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE - 200K miles
Series of questions about VATS...
99 SE - I'm having intermittent failure to turn over. All signs point to VATS problem.

Are there any alternatives to the bypass technique?
Is there a way to diagnose the problem without performing the bypass?
If the VATS system itself is failing, how does one replace it?

_________________
1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE - 200K miles


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 Post subject: Re: vats question
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:22 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:55 pm
Posts: 1204
Year and Trim: 2003 Lesabre Limited, 2008 Cobalt, 2014 Malibu
grnmonster wrote:
Is there a sure way to rule out the vats is not working? When I go to start my car the fuel pump kicks in and I hear a clicking sound under the dash on the passenger side but the starter will not turn over. The battery tested go so does this sound like a bad starter or a bad vats?


I can only assume the clicking is a one time click and that could be the starter relay being energized by the VATS (theft deterrent module). Is it clicking once when you turn the key to ON or Start?

The first check is what someone else suggested indirectly--see if you're getting power to the starter to energize the relay on the starter (solenoid). You might have battery cable corrosion at the double/multiple cables on the positive terminal. Take them off and clean them and check down into the plastic. Look for the lead spacer between the two positive contacts to be sure that it's not corroded.

If you check at the solenoid terminal on the starter and aren't getting power, then the battery cables _might_ be a problem.


If the VATS is a problem, it most likely is the wires breaking, strand by strand, in the flex at the tilt wheel point up in the steering column.
So the bypass resistor is the easiest and best fix.


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