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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:27 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 Bonniville SSEi L67
SURE,it may get 300-500 rpm higher but not over double normal idle - and if engine is hot, it should stay fairly steady

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:34 pm 
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so it looks like those old plugs are causing the 1500 rpm hesitation

buddy, work on one issue at a time - what does 'humbs' mean pl.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:34 pm 
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I cleaned tb yesterday too .

My language is what it is. So it wont stay high in hot start it revs.

https://youtu.be/-LVkDwbpigo

This is not my video, but 1:55+ guy starts his car. Mine does same in hot start but revs drop little bit faster than car in video.

Cold engine no problem it takes higher idle "choke" and lowers when engine warms up.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:37 pm 
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96 SSEi wrote:
so it looks like those old plugs are causing the 1500 rpm hesitation

buddy, work on one issue at a time - what does 'humbs' mean pl.


I have those new plugs and wires which fixed first that problem. If plugs didnt go bad when engine flooded?


Humbs heh... It mean that idle goes 600rpm 800rpm 700rpm 500rpm 800rpm. It waves and swings, wont stay steady.

It does that about 1-5seconds cycle. Drops and goes up and steady for couple seconds then again drops and goes up.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:11 pm
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Year and Trim: 2000 Bonniville SSEi L67
try starting the car with just the key - the high rpm may be you giving a bit of throttle

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 4:16 am 
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I start with key.

That throttle start is fixed and car starts very fine cold/hot when i turn key.

Problems with this car is now rough, humbing idle when you start hot engine and 1500rpm hesitation. That warm/hot engine just after start reving idle is not problem for me but i wanna know is it normal. Like that youtube video.

Works fine otherwise.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:57 am 
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I regonized that if i rev 4000rpm with slight throttle in neutral/park, engine stumbles and revs drop in 3000rpm.

If i press more throttle it revs in redline with no problem.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:01 pm 
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yeah, one of my 90's w body cars did that for a while(humbs) but I just did regular maintenance and it went away after about 3-6 months - maybe a weather thing
it didn't affect the driving or reliability of car.

that 4000 rpm is prob. the same as 1500rpm but under less load it has moved to 4000 - just a guess.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:29 pm 
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96 SSEi wrote:
yeah, one of my 90's w body cars did that for a while(humbs) but I just did regular maintenance and it went away after about 3-6 months - maybe a weather thing
it didn't affect the driving or reliability of car.

that 4000 rpm is prob. the same as 1500rpm but under less load it has moved to 4000 - just a guess.

I looked video from youtube, that said rev limiter is 4000rpm when car is travelling under 10mph / park. It was buick's orginal teaching video from 1988. I dont know is it same to pontiac.


When Idle humbs, then it hesitates on 1500rpm. If idle wont humb, car wont hesitate 1500rpm too.


Today it didnt humb at any time, even hot start.


This is hard :banghead:


When idle humbs, iac plug off and it stops.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 4:50 pm 
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clean and test iac - car off - see position - idle from warm - unplug - see position - humbs - see position
the position should be the same for all idles.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Throttlebody is good, when o cleaned it carb cleaner didnt flowed thru plate. So idle screw is untouched and carbon buildup etc wont give more air to intake.

So only thing which can humb idle is iac am i right?

But will something else (like maf) give wrong info and then iac works bad and rough?


I checked iac weeks ago and positions, it moves. Cold engine pintle small and hot engine pintle grows.


Maybe win aldl cable is proper medicine? I dont have and ebay prices shipped to here are over 100$


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:43 pm 
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NEXT time it humbs, open the hood and see if throttle plate is closed and you can inspect cable

you can unplug the maf and see if it changes

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:17 am 
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96 SSEi wrote:
NEXT time it humbs, open the hood and see if throttle plate is closed and you can inspect cable

you can unplug the maf and see if it changes

I allready unplug maf when it humbed and it stops. Idle was then steady.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:03 am 
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maybe clean maf....

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:04 pm 
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I have cleaned it allready with proper cleaner ä.


Todays tests:

Idle humbs only when you start hot engine. If you start cold engine and drive it x miles, no matter 10 or 1000 its fine. But when you start it hot engine humbing starts.

Maf plug off, humb stops immediately.

Maf plug off, wont rev over 3500 on neutral o drive, no matter when you press pedal.


Bogging is same that i have maf on with slight throttle rev neutral 4000rpm but maf on i can get redline with full throttle. In idle.



So maf is my problem?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:01 pm 
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your humbs issue is so small that I would just ignore it for now if it doesnt affect driveability.

test the maf ..... http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ ... f-sensor-1

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:57 pm 
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I dont have hz gauge for test.


Humb is irritating and i think mot test goes wrong if it humbs?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:34 pm 
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a slightly surging idle wont mess up anything.

didnt see the hertz... so the first dc test was good?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:36 am 
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96 SSEi wrote:
a slightly surging idle wont mess up anything.

didnt see the hertz... so the first dc test was good?

Yes volts and ground fine.

That test said that hz multimeter will show maf working on rpm etc. So that volt test is just basics. SES light will glow when + or - disappears.


Surging idle messes my 1500rpm drive and its just 80-90kmh range which is here common speed limit.

And when idle wont hassle, 1500rpm is fine too. There is connection i belive.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 12:39 pm 
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you said the surge goes away after drive.

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