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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:26 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
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Try a forum search to find out if it's possible to remove the transmission from up top w/o removing the engine.
I know it isn't possible in later models.

I would check the rubber vacuum line (and its steel line) that attaches to the transmission vacuum modulator.
This modulator is responsible for fluid pressures and shift points.
If the fluid level is OK... you may want to do a filter and fluid change.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 1:32 pm 
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I find that you can remove it pretty easy or overhaul prettt well even when its still attached in engine.


I need tips for that error so i can look right spot. If its only one piston i dont have overhaul whole trans.

Because parts and knowledge here isnt so easy that full overhaul is first thing to do. Or another used tranny.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:18 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
1998 SE
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2002 SSEI
Karpov wrote:
I need tips for that error so i can look right spot. If its only one piston i dont have overhaul whole trans.

Because parts and knowledge here isnt so easy that full overhaul is first thing to do. Or another used tranny.


I understand that, which is why I suggested you consider replacing the transmission filter and fluid AND examine the vacuum lines before considering an overhaul or replacing any other parts.

The original rubber pan gasket is reusable, if in good condition.
Did you check for any codes?
Sometimes a sensor can cause transmission problems or a code can indicate what to look at.
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1624

Amazon sells it for a very good price, but I don't know if European Amazon sites also sell the kit or if the US Amazon site ships to your location.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-24228950 ... automotive

Not sure that any of us here can advise you if this does not fix the problem.
Unfortunately, most of us are not transmission repair experts.

This forum appears to have a number of helpful transmission experts replying, at least sometimes.
This post indicates that the 1-2 shift valve wears and sticks in the bore.
http://forums.automotive.com/70/1049237 ... 440-t4-fw/


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:04 am 
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Thank you!

I have new filter and gasket and im gonna change fluid some day.


No fault codes. I think that my d shift problem is nearest to 4t60 repair manual problem: no movement on forward in drive position? I think it means permanent state but who nows when mine is same kind of.

If it happens again, i must remember try switch 1-3 manual side and find out will it then move. Because now in d and od position it needs p or neutral before it moves again on d or od position.



Piston seal was in repair manual too but i dont know is it safe to look it? Because i dont have new part for it. And new piston is usa order item and price is near hundred with all costs.


In my luck, i open it and seals broke in hundred pieces or whole piston cracks :D


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 1:28 pm 
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OK, that 1,2 thing sounds like the shift solenoid - you can raise the car 2-3 feet and use floor jacks to drop the trans enough to get to the solenoid - no the engine stays in.
just unbolt trans and subframe.

if the fluid is nice and clean, be gentle and you should be ok... yeah its expensive but its not going to repair itself.

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past rides:
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 1:40 pm 
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That thing comes straight out no need to remove anything?

Image

Above filter in that picture.



https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2327486895 and here is one for sale.




I changed plug wires and plugs. Now cold idle is about 1100-1200. Before it was max 1000.

Pcv and thermostat later because it maybe need upper intake removal?


Cold start was poor before that. Even that i but ignition on many times before.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 12:48 pm 
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New plug and wires fixed 1500rpm stumbling!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:59 pm 
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Glad the stumble is gone!

You don't have to remove the intake, unless the gaskets leak.
That is a problem in the newer series 2 and series 3 engines.

The thermostat and pcv valve do not require intake removal.

Sorry I can not help much with the transmission.

I am curious to know which city you are in where temperatures drop to -25 celsius !!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 3:40 am 
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Okay thanks!

I forgot order new o ring for thermostat, i didnt know there arent paper gasket heh.

Hot engine idle waving is still on but i try clean maf like there has been told.


North europe, Finland. January-february is usually here -10 to - 30 celcius. Good time to crack plastic and rubber hoses under the hood :D


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 11:03 am 
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its not going to get better by itself so, sure, I would give it a try. just be sure to be 'ready' when you get the case open so you are in and out fairly quickly and confidently.

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past rides:
1996 SSEi
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:09 am 
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Tried to measure fuel pressure. I think my once time before used gauge is worn. Didnt moved at all. 0-8bar range, not even 0.1bar.


Car gived couple massive backfires in intake when i started it 3sec couple times.


There is pressure on line, pushed valve on my nail and gasoline sprayed. Without ignition on pressure dropped like should.


This was not succes, must get new gauge.

Backfire is mystique? Too much fuel and it bangs in intake?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:20 pm 
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I thought the backfire had been cured already.

If the backfire was cured and then reappeared after you replaced some parts, then double check that something wasn't left loose or connected wrong (ignition wires connected to wrong cylinders).
The cylinders closest to the radiator are , from passenger's side to driver's side 1-3-5
Cylinders closest to the firewall/windshield, from passenger's side to driver's side 2-4-6

Many things can cause backfire through the intake.
It can be fuel mixture related (too much or too little), ignition system based or even low voltage caused by a weak battery, corroded battery cable ends or a poor ground.
Engine mechanical issues, such as an intake valve sticking open are also possible.

The following problems affect fuel mixture:
Dirty throttle body (throttle plate sticks or idle air control valve sticks)
Vacuum leak
Stuck open PCV valve
Stuck open EGR valve
Defective mass air flow sensor
Defective ignition control module
Weak ignition coil
Spark plug wire not tight on plug or coil

Lower than normal fuel supply caused by:
Failing fuel pump
Partially clogged fuel injector(s)
Dirty fuel filter
Too much fuel from a fuel injector that is leaking.

Without stored computer codes and without a fuel pressure gauge, it's going to be more difficult to diagnose.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:52 am 
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Yes i get gauge today.

My mechanical terms in english. That 1500rpm stumble cured after new plugs and wired. Car twitched before in that rpm. Not harsh but it was disturbing.


That backfire appears only when i try start it cold and 1/4 fuel or less in tank. Not in first start but second or third.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:50 am 
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Fuel pressure 40psi and half needle's width over it. Ignition on after 24h parking.


Engine running on idle it was needle width under 40psi. 39,5psi etc.


Started now in 3sec but not fresh. Dont know does the fuel pressure gage affected?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:35 pm 
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i would inspect the fuel pressure regulator - pull the vacuum line off and see if you smell or see gas in the line - there should be none.

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past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:40 pm 
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Okay i smell it.

But fuel will go thru regulator when i do pressure test? So reading tells that it seems be okay?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:31 pm 
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Karpov wrote:
Okay i smell it.

But fuel will go thru regulator when i do pressure test? So reading tells that it seems be okay?


no, the regulator should seal with 90psi - no leakage

next time you start the car, push gas pedal to the floor 2 times - release then start

i'm thinking that bad regulator is leaking into manifold and then, boom, by opening the throttle, you get some vapors out. no boom

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past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:51 am 
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No fuel smell or fuel in regulator/hoses.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 7:20 am 
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Well well..

I go to car after couple days and but fuel pressure gauge on.


Now pressure was gone. Before in started measurements, in pushed valve and there was nothing.


I but ignition on and off about 20 times, no pressure. Fuel pump runs (i heared) like normal ,2 seconds after ignition on.


Now there was fuel on line (i pressed valve) but no pressure.


Very mystique :D fuel pumps in my cars are usually broken suddenly and permanently.


Some wonder wakes pump when you continue starting.



Does someone have some measurements or spot if i do hole inside car? So i dont have to drop tank.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:35 am 
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Pulsator failure near pump?


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