Hi there. I am freaking out. Just had my 89 bonnie's sse engine replaced. Got a 3800 231 in vin c from a 90 reatta. Had the block and heads gone thru by a very reputable machine shop man, all new rings, quality felpro gaskets all around, new radiator, etc. We thought everything was ready, my mechanic friend attempted to put plain water first into radiator to check for leaks. Sure enough, water started to pour out on the left side of engine, just below throttle body. We stripped it down, he didn't like the looks of a few sensors just under the TB, so we replaced them, new gaskets, gooped up with silicone where appropriate, still leaking. Will next do a pressure test on system see if he can pinpoint the problem. Im not there with him right now as I am working. Anyone have any thoughts? He initially has said he didn't think it was the head gaskets as the water level seemed to leak at the very top of being filled, then stops. From underneath the car the water is cascading on both sides of the transaxel, for whats thats worth.

He thinks the leak happens when the water level is above the head gaskets therefore they are holding pressure ok. Again, this is just in pouring water into the radiator, squeezing the top rad hose. No starting of car...HELP!

UPDATE: The pressure test shows that the throttle body pipe that brings warm water into the throttle body is the culprit! under pressure water shot out of there..so I am in search of part number 25533986, the tube itself, and corresponding parts 25533988 and 89..the o rings for this pipe. Any suggestions where to find? The oem GM stuff online all say discontinued part...

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A temporary fix does not exist. It becomes a solution until it needs to be fixed again.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOYkkevV0gKTHc_8Cstuy8yS1Qyx6SiIKeTzuHy

Unless the tube on your engine is damaged, you should just have to find the O-rings that fit.

This can be a bit of trial and error to determine if the o-ring is metric or SAE, and how thick it should be. usually accomplished by measuring the OD of the hole and the ID of the groove in the pipe that the oring sits in. General rule of thumb is 25% compression of the O-ring in the joint. You can get O-rings from many places, McMaster has SAE and metric O-rings you can get in individual sizes, generally under $12 for a pack of 2-5 depending on the type.

I would avoid the harbor freight o-rings, about 40% of them have surface deformations or ridges that won't seal right, unless you have a good eye it's not worth the trouble.

If you can't find the OE parts you're looking for, that's the only other alternative.

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I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!


Runs:
'93 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi - Twincharged, manual, racecar! Build thread
'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, Getting ready for some major upgrades!
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Olds Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 Buick LeSabre - L67 project, future winter DD
'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

Doesn't run:
'87 Buick LeSabre T-type - future victim
'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim

Thanks gents..As we are in sunny so california, we went with option C...plug the darn thing so no water will go through the throttle body any longer...Research online indicated this was ok to do, as long as the car is operated when its not cold out.

If it's what I think it is, it's there simply to prevent the throttle body from icing up. I highly doubt 'sunny California' will ever see any issues, especially with the intake hanging straight over the exhaust crossover.

Even if it does happen to crop up, any competent and mechanically minded driver can detect the problem it would cause, and should be able to account for it before it became dangerous.

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~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place