Yes, I am underway in my saying adios to that Teves Mark 2 ABS system I have thrown all kinds of money at the past 8-10 years. After the last rebuild a few months back, just cannot seem to get it to bleed properly from the master cylinder. Two of the three lines seemed to do something when they were opened up and pressure was applied to the pedal, ie. fluid came out the fitting, the brake went to the floor, etc. Left with a normal feeling pedal. But the last line, nothing to very little came out of the fitting, and the pedal was like a rock when tested after.Red lights stayed on, and a rock hard pedal offered no stopping ability when tested. Tried twice, no dice... So, the time had come. I ordered up a master cylinder-brake booster combo from Oreilly auto parts, around $150 plus core charge. Went on down to the local pick a part yard and found a sweet 1988 Cadillac Deville with what appeared to be the correct proportional valves I would need. Also found a strut tower brace I have been wanting to get too!

I will update when I get further along in the conversion. Any advice/input/comments are appreciated too. Thanks.

Also...anyone more skilled then I need a recently rebuilt ABS Brake pump for the Teves Mark 2? Maybe you can get it to work on your car? Let it go at a fair price..

I too have thought of converting. I have been driving an '88 Toro with Teves and had the rock hard pedal issue that was solved with a swap out of the entire unit. It improved everything except when I panic stop, the pedal goes hard for a second or two before the brakes begin to grab. I am so used to it now that I brake well in advance and do not tailgate. But it clearly is not right. I agree with you that maybe the trick is getting a proper bleed job. I just purchased a 90 Bonnie SSE with, you guessed it, Teves. It seems to be working ok now but it makes an annoying rapid clicking sound coming from under the steering column area when the brakes are applied. Oh well I can live with that. Let me know how difficult it was. Also, I live in Commerce Township, MI. Where do you reside?

I am in Los Angeles.

The rock hard pedal is most likely caused by the screw in pressure solenoid above the motor.
Went through the diagnostic chart and that is where my SSE Teves unit failed.
Its not activating the pump motor.

_________________
90 SSE Bonneville Sold but not forgotten.

A screw eh? Hmm...What happens, the screw becomes too loose, over tightened and stripped, what? Is it visible on unit or you need to remove some pieces to see it?

Also, my abs pump didn't have an issue activating,, darn thing wouldn't stop running was the issue! The last straw was not being able to bleed the master as everyone says to do. Two of the three lines bled OK, but one once loosened didn't give up much fluid, thus air. Pedal stayed too hard and inoperable, enough with it. Conversion under way. Just trying to figure out how to do the master brake lines set up. The new conventional master has 4 line fittings, the old one 3. Went to salvage yard and bought a mc from off a 1988 Cadillac deville..looked identical and just wanted the proportional valves.

I believe ssebonne4ever was referencing the pressure switch that is threaded and had to be unscrewed to remove it. It is locate just above the pump and motor assembly and just in front of the accumulator ball. There is a diagram on 5 E-3 of the 1990 service manual.

Thanks for the clarification Retroren. Today I have been trying to get the mc hooked up with the original brake lines on the car. I have been told that I could use two of the smaller ports on top, for the fronts, and one of the bottom ports, (which is proportioned with a valve I took off of a salvaged 88 cadillac with a similiar set up without the abs) , to go the back y splitter and thus the two rear drums. It seems the 3 orig inal brake lines are all different which I knew, but even have different thread design and will not just screw on the new master cylinder or proportional valves. So checking around the valley in LA here trying to find something that works.

it sounds you are well into it by now. i used to own a 1995 Riviera and i used rivieraperformance.com as my source for help. there are a lot of knowledgeable people on that forum. i don't know if gm put teves on late '80 - early '90s rivs but i bet those guys could help you with the conversion. i also own an '88 toro and that does not have a very active forum. this one seems to be pretty good. i bought my '90 bonne sse 4 months ago and have been doing some mechanical and body work. she is almost ready to hit the road. good luck

yes. the peeps on this site have been very helpful. I did find a local place that had the fittings I needed, just have to cut off two fittings that don't work, re flare two lines, put it all together and test it out! Finally...

Finally got the fittings all sorted out,,but now after bleeding of master and each wheel, the brake pedal is really soft and low. The car stops, but I don't like the feel at all. Any suggestions where to look, what to check?

You must be very frustrated. Hang in there and you will get it sorted out. If you are sure that you got all the air out by bleeding then is the master cylinder bad? Is there a brake booster in the system that is bad? If you haven't don so already, maybe you should buy the service manual for the donor car that you got the brake system from to help you with your diagnosis. Remember, take a step back, take a deep breath and start ruling out the simple stuff. Sorry I couldn't be more technical with my suggestions.

Actually the master cylinder and pwer booster came as a unit remanufactured from Oreilly auto parts..with a lifetime warranty..I will be taking it to a real brake shop tomorrow, let them go through it and see what they find. Really need a diagnosis only if its anything other then a real proper bleeding it may still need. or they might need to adjust rear drums or something. We shall see...

Now I was told this am by a reputable brake shop I took the Bonnie to, that there doesn't appear to be anything getting to the rear brakes? The are not engaging, nothing comes out when the tried to bleed them, etc. My friend Lewis who did the conversion for me swears he got fluid out when he bled the rears the other day. So I don't know what to do. They also said I could get a machine shop to make me a new piece to bring the brake pedal up, as the new master.booster combination, the brake pedal starts out much lower due to a shorter connecting rod. Lewis said just get some pedal covers that will give another 1/2 inch or so to the pedal height. What cha think?

This thread may be worth a look.

1987/topic30603.html

I don't see where the lines to the rear brakes were addressed at all. Have you done anything with that aspect yet by chance?

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

Tried to post a picture from my cell phone but couldn't get it to work right. Anyway, what we did, with the guidance of the Oreme Bros. brake fitting company in Northridge, CA, was come up with a way to use the two bottom proportioned valves on the new master cylinder ( we got the valves from a junker 1988 Caddy that had what appeared to be the same master setup ), have a short line come off of each, then, have them go into a small junction block that pulls both lines together, then screwing in the rear brake line into that. A Y connector I guess you would call it, that runs to the back and does whatever the rear brake line did before we changed the master/ booster combo. Does that sound right?