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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:38 pm
Posts: 2
Year and Trim: 1991 LE
Replacing a bearing/hub assembly, and there is a dust/grease seal that gets pressed to the axle. I had to punch the old one out, and tried pressing the new one in using the hub and slowly press the entire thing in a few twists of the bolts at a time. It didn't slide in very well and I completely mangled the thing. Ordered a new seal, and went by a shop I use sometimes and asked them about it. They weren't too sure, but suggested that it should probably be installed from the back, which would involve removing the axle... so is that right? Or is there a better way to press that thing in there? It seems kind of flimsy and I don't want to bugger it up. Again. Here's pictures of a good part and the part I ruined www.imgur.com/riSJWq5


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 1:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:50 pm
Posts: 293
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Year and Trim: 1993 SSE Medium Garnet Red Metallic, Gray
What I am seeing in my mind, based on the photo you have posted, is a bit different system than is on my '93. Both have what might be called a "Cassette", or a hub bearing assembly which bolts to the front upright.

[Snippety Snip!]

When all else fails, you can download a shop manual, sometimes they can be cost effective. Found one for $20 here: http://www.repairsurge.com/manual/Pontiac/Bonneville/1991/

EDIT:

OK, forget all of that.... I see that the systems are not so different: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-513016-K

So. If that seal is designed to fit around the axle hub where it enters the new bearing, likely it will have to be inserted from the inner side. You can't exactly pull the axle without at least unbolting the upright from the strut. Doing so will allow it lean out far enough (still attached to the lower ball joint) so that the axle will no longer protrude through the spot where the bearing mounts in the upright. From there you can make room to install the seal. Most FLAPS will have a seal installation set as part of their tool loaner program. In any case, all pressure must be only on the closed side of the metal portion, and none on the rubber seal. There sometimes is a seat for a seal; otherwise most are inserted until the metal housing is flush with the edge of the opening it is installed in.

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Alan Sheidler

Proud Third Caretaker of the Family Heirloom '93 SSE
Medium Garnet Red Metallic, Gray Leather Interior
Silver Cross-Lace Wheels (I love this car)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:18 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Great Lake State
Year and Trim: 4 9th gen Eighty Eights 3 11th gen Ninety Eights
I've seen both styles of these used for the same application and interchanged them. I've also used the bearing to press in the one with no lip to the correct depth.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:03 pm 
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LE Member

Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:38 pm
Posts: 2
Year and Trim: 1991 LE
Thanks guys. I was able to remove the axle by unmounting it from the upright. It was a pain to pull it out of there but it worked and I needed an alignment anyway. I should have taken pictures... but anyhow I used the old seal butted up to the new one and tapped it into place. Once I knew what I was doing it wasn't hard at all. Next time I'll be sure to take pictures of the process. I'll post it here if this thread is still open or make a new one if need be, I imagine I'll be tackling the drivers side soon anyhow. It's a 91 with 99k... probably about time.


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