Update... picked up a new tester @ work today... the test light that makes it easy to pierce the wires without piercing my fingers! It proved to be very helpful.

I peeled back the wire conduit from the ICM connector all the way back to the main junction behind the cowling. Had power @ cowling.. pushed the fused connector I found back together and checked the wire the rest of the way back to the connector finding that I now have power all the way to the module... put it all back together and cranked.. sparked for a bit then quit again... took the negative off the battery, pulled to connector off the module and examined the connector.

The connector's pins seemed a little spread out, so I used the fine point on an old test light to push the pins down for a better connection. I also discovered that the connector appears to be slightly damaged from not being careful swapping around modules. I will go to the wrecking yard after work tomorrow and find a connector off of a 3.3 that is in good condition and cut the wire leaving plenty of room to splice the new connector in with the existing harness on the vehicle.

Not sure on the LG3, but all the others are one single harness between the crank and cam sensors and the ICM with a single connector by the intake manifold. If it is the same, I suggest replacing the harness rather than splicing. Spliced wires under the hood can cause nightmares later.

That is a good idea. I will be sure to get plenty of the harness in that area. If splicing is needed, I was planning on using the best butt splices I know of.. crimp,solder and heat-shrink connectors we sell @ work. I also plan on replacing the wire conduit under the hood.

I better get some rest! I have a lot to accomplish tomorrow.. including making the last payment on my 85 C-10!

LG3 = single engine harness. Splice is the best option here. Unfortunately.

If you have the time, you can use a tiny flat blade screwdriver to remove the individual pins form the connector and repair them (tiny means 1mm or less diameter of the shaft, and a 1.5mm x .25mm blade). I have done this many times, and I think it's easier than splicing.

Just be extra careful to not mix up any wires during the splice if you chose that route.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67