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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:48 am 
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
exactly as the title says.

its a long story, the car was free, and was not leaking when i got it..

i noticed the water pump knocking very loud lately so i decided to change the water pump.

when i did this i had forgot that the last time i changed the water pump ( 6 months ago ) i noticed 2 of the bolts snapped off in the engine. one bolt is sticking out about a quarter inch or less and the other broke off in the engine.

i could not fit a extraction bit in there especially in my drill due to the location of the water pump.

so i used a single tube of jb weld and BAM........ 24 hours later there was no leaks and for the last 6 months it did not leak a single drop from where i used the jb welb..


i changed the water pump last night and used another tube of jb weld but this time i used the water proof one instead of the regular one. and 24 hours later it still leaks after the jb weld warms up from the engine heat it turns soft again and leaks.


any idea on what i should do besided tearing it down and putting more jb weld ?


help my wife needs her car working asap.. thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:22 pm 
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95 SLE (SC)
97 Buick LeSabre
Use an extractor or get a new motor.

You can use a 90° drill for better access. Use a left-handed drill bit to drill the hole before using the extractor. It will help loosen the broken bolt.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:13 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:08 am
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
willwren wrote:
Use an extractor or get a new motor.

You can use a 90° drill for better access. Use a left-handed drill bit to drill the hole before using the extractor. It will help loosen the broken bolt.



wow, i defenitly do not want to hae to replace the motor, it runs good and just hit 100k..... : (


but can you also reccomend a good extraction kit. i have bought the $25 black n decker kit before for something and all the extraction nbits snapped in half on me..

the car has been in my garage for a week exactly now. i cant afford to keep paying for a rental for my wife, and for some reason she will not drive my car unless its hers she says.. :btruestory:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:10 am 
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97 Buick LeSabre
Sometimes you don't get the answer you want. The Black and Decker kit is a great kit, but with all tools like that, you have to realize that when they're hardened, they become brittle like any steel tool taken to that level of hardness. You cannot apply ANY leverage. It has to be a pure twisting force only. Start with the smallest extractor you can, and work your way up if the hole strips out.

Use penetrant and a torch to pre-loosen it's grip in the block. Frankly, if you don't have much experience with extractors, you shouldn't be attempting it. It should be taken to a professional or someone with a ton of experience. Your water pump should never have been JB Welded to begin with. That could have cost you your motor.

Like I said above, use a LEFT-HANDED drill bit of the proper size to drill it out, with the drill in reverse. Make sure you center-punch it well so the drill doesn't take out the internal threads in the block. Cast Iron is very soft, the bolt is very hard.

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93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:08 am
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
willwren wrote:
Sometimes you don't get the answer you want. The Black and Decker kit is a great kit, but with all tools like that, you have to realize that when they're hardened, they become brittle like any steel tool taken to that level of hardness. You cannot apply ANY leverage. It has to be a pure twisting force only. Start with the smallest extractor you can, and work your way up if the hole strips out.

Use penetrant and a torch to pre-loosen it's grip in the block. Frankly, if you don't have much experience with extractors, you shouldn't be attempting it. It should be taken to a professional or someone with a ton of experience. Your water pump should never have been JB Welded to begin with. That could have cost you your motor.

Like I said above, use a LEFT-HANDED drill bit of the proper size to drill it out, with the drill in reverse. Make sure you center-punch it well so the drill doesn't take out the internal threads in the block. Cast Iron is very soft, the bolt is very hard.


thanks for the help will, just want to clear one thing up tho.. i did not use the jb weld as a gasket maker or on the gasket.. i used regular gasket maker by rtv. after the water pump was already installed what i did was bought the 2 part jb weld epoxy mix which as the red and the black tubes. i mixed a batch up and i used a small artist type paint brush and then brushed in over the holes on the water pump where the 2 screws were snapped to try to seal the holes.

i never put any jb weld any where that would let the jb get into the engine any way at all.. is that what you thought when you said i could have killed the enigine..


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:06 pm 
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95 SLE (SC)
97 Buick LeSabre
It doesn't matter where you applied the JB. You shouldn't have used it anywhere under the hood for any reason.

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PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers


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