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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:22 am 
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Hey all. Couple of new items that I need some feedback on.

I just did the front brakes on the car and the back breaks are completely new. Since I've gotten the car when I apply the brake hard, the brake and abs light comes on. Most of the time it goes right back out, sometimes it will stay on for a long period of time. No rhyme or reason to it. Mastercylinder is full of fluid. I'm thinking it is the mastercylinder and of course this is the $150-$200 one. Any one know of issues that are fixable or do I just have to swap it out?

When I first put the car together it started almost instantaneously with the turn of the key. Lately, it has been turning over for anywhere from 4-8 seconds before starting. Not sure why and I would welcome any thoughts on that. New fuel pump and filter.

Thanks

Mike

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:36 am 
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Could the Fuel Pressure Regulator be bad, and leaking fuel down, until the pump can replenish the pressure?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:17 pm 
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How would that cause an ABS light?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:23 pm 
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We had this problem with the brakes on our SSE, except it was all the time. The usual cause is a failing accumulator on the ABS system. You can usually confirm it by pumping the brakes up good, and if the ABS and BRAKE lights come on at the same time, and the pedal becomes rock hard <as if ABS took over, but no pulsing> but fades down until you hit the floor. If it does this in 3 pumps or less, you had better start saving up. If you are complaining about $150-$200 master cylinders, you are not gonna like this guy either.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:26 pm 
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J Wikoff wrote:
How would that cause an ABS light?

He was offering an explanation of long crank time.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:37 pm 
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oh...

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WHITE WHINE - IT'S INTOXICATING. 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over)
15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Easy Performance Gen 3 Air/Fuel Calibrator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers and 10" Subs, 1300 watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, McCoy Motorsports Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim Trailblazer mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:53 pm 
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For the delayed start, disconnect the oil pressure sender and see if it starts at all.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:23 am 
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Regarding the brakes, I was thinking it was the mastercylinder. This one comes with a hefty price tag. Any tips when I do get it on bench bleeding the mastercylinder?

The start up is totally random. Today it started once in 2 seconds. I started another time in 8. One thing I noticed is that when it takes a long time it smells like it is loaded up with fuel. Car runs, drives and idles just fine for the record. No issues with lack of power. New air filter, etc.

Thanks guys

Mike

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:25 am 
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Additionally, where is the location of the oil pressure sending switch? Backside of the block underneath?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:50 am 
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Right by the oil filter.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:30 pm 
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Popped it off and the car started right up. Not sure of the correllation but it's all good. I think I'm going to pull, inspect and replace the plugs and see what I can see.

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